In 1849, a three-mast vessel called the 'Aliwal' almost collided with the shoal, giving the shoal its now famous name. The 'Aliwal' was under the command of Captain James Anderson. The Aliwal Shoal lies between 3 & 5 km of the South African east coast and the Shoal is located on the inner edge of the warm Mozambique current that often allows for excellent visibility. The diving is operated from a little town called Umkomaas that got its name from the Umkomanzi River that runs through the town. The name Umkomanzi, literally translated means 'The watering place of the whales'.
Diving at Aliwal Shoal is an unforgettable experience. This stunning place has been rated by
Jacques Cousteau as one of the top dive sites in the world and, because of its size, there
are plenty of sites of interest on the shoal. Most of the diving is done on the inside and the
outside edge of the shoal. The more famous includes Raggies Cave, Pinnacles, Shark Alley,
Cathedral, South Sands, North Sands, and Manta Point.
Given the fact that the Aliwal Shoal lies a bit more south on the South African east coast, the
Shoal offers the diver a different experience to that of the reefs at Sodwana Bay and
Southern Mozambique. Aliwal Shoal also has two exciting shipwrecks that lies within the
range of an Advanced qualification. The Produce, a 119m long cargo vessel that struck the
shoal in August 1974 and The Nebo, a 2000 ton steamship that sunk in May 1884. Both
these wrecks are now home to an unbelievable amount of marine fauna and flora, including
thousands of tropical fish, rays, guitar sharks and Giant Brindle Bass, which are massive 3m
long fish with eyes the size of portholes.
Diving at Aliwal Shoal should not be confused with resort diving, as conditions can be more
demanding than some of our other spots more north. All dives are done from a 7m semirigged
Duck (Zodiac). Unlike at Sodwana Bay or Mozambique where all launches are done
from the beach, at Aliwal it is possible to launch from the Umkomazi river mouth if the tide
permits.
The average day temperature in summer is around 30°C and around 23°C in winter. Sea
temperature is 25°C and almost never falls below 18°C. From July to November the Ragged
tooth sharks are on the shoal in abundance, as they annually migrate to the shoal that is their
preferred resting ground. Dolphins and Whales are very frequently seen on the launch as
well as on the shoal. The Aliwal Shoal is home to over 1100 species of fish, as well as
Turtles, Stingrays and Manta rays. Apart from the Ragged-tooth sharks there are other
sharks that also visit the shoal, including Tiger sharks, Zambezi sharks, White tip reef sharks
and Whale sharks.
The Aliwal Shoal is truly an exciting place to dive and definitely contributes towards an
unforgettable safari.
REEF INFO
Raggie Cave
This is the area most often occupied by the ragged tooth shark during the shark season. The actual cave is not very large, but is part of a long overhang which forms the outer rim of what is sometimes called the "amphitheatre". This area is characterized by many boulder-like rock outcrops and has a large sandy patch on the bottom. The cave is big enough to easily fit in a couple of scuba divers and Ragged-tooth Sharks at once. The average depth is around 12m and maximum depth in this area is 18m and hence also within the diving range of most open water divers. There are more hard coral than soft coral on this reef and fewer reef fish. In the gullies and crevices the juvenile fish hides during the day. Stonefish and Scorpion fish are commonly found in this area. This dive is known worldwide for the Ragged-tooth Shark visits and Sharks teeth can be found inside the cave and also in the surrounding sand patches. Due to the protective haven that the "amphitheatre" provides, makes a welcome place to spend some time when the current on the shoal is a little harsh.
Shark Alley
This section of Aliwal Shoal, leads from the outer edge of the shoal at a depth of 24 meters up to the opening of "Raggies Cave" which is at 18 meters. Due to the huge depth change there is a very nice steep rock face to dive which forms the walls of the gulley known as"Shark Alley". The bottom is mostly sandy with a few rocky formations jutting out here and there. There are a number of caves going into the rock face and are home to a number of resident Potato Bass.
Cathedral
Called such because of the grand entrance from the outer edge to this round cavern which sits on the ocean bed at 26 meters and rises up to a pothole opening at 18 meters, this is one of the most popular dive sites on the shoal as well as the second home to the Ragged tooth sharks. Imagine a cave surrounded by a craterlike rock formation with Ragged-tooth sharks swimming in and out like planes at a busy landing strip. Some of them are tagged and under constant surveillance with tracking systems that is placed near the caves to monitor the migration of these incredible animals. Other regulars at Cathedral are Scorpion fish, Stonefish, Hawk-bill turtles and schools of common reef fish like Butterfly fish, Angelfish, Trumpetfish etc. On the reef itself, one should be on the lookout for various types of Nudibranch and Sea stars in all shapes, colours and sizes. On the plateau part of the reef there is different coloured sponges scattered all along the reef. Various types of hard coral can be found on the top part of the reef whereas the soft coral tends to be more hidden in the crevices and holes in the reef. Beautiful soft coral like Thistle coral in various colours are common, Black coral and the yellow Dead-man's finger with clouds of Goldies hanging about finishes off this beautiful picture.
Northern Sands
This is a sand patch that lies between 10m and 15m on the northern part of the Aliwal Shoal and is surrounded by various other dive spots that are host to a huge amount of marine life. This area is known for the great amount of Round Ribbon-tail Rays found buried underneath the sand and under the edges of the surrounding reef. Guitar sharks are also a common sight in the summer months. Be on the lookout for Sole and flounders also covered underneath the sand with only their eyes sticking out. For the more inquisitive diver, the sand patch has lots of old shells as well as old Sharks teeth. Game fish are always in the vicinity.
Southern Sands
This area is a huge sand patch surrounded by reef that lies between 15m and 18m. On the sand patch you will also find some scattered reef. It has a ledge which runs the length of it and is home to many small fish and crustaceans. The reef life is rather quiet when you first approach, but underneath the rock there is a market of sea life. Reef fish hide in the crevices away from the predators. Lovely Boxfish, Pufferfish and even Crayfish can be found if you take the time to look. Sand-sharks and various kinds of Rays and Skates are seen on a regular basis here. On the reef patches you'll find Leather coral, Yellow turret coral and various colours of Thistle coral. A wide range of Nudibranchs are also found here and don't forget to look around for game fish visiting the area especially when schools of tuna are passing by. Southern Sands is a great place to start a dive when there is a northern current running and a drift dive is at the order of the day.
Pinnacles
This section of the Aliwal Shoal is an area with long spine-like rock formations that provide a haven for thousands of species of fish and is an amazing place to dive when you want to do a long, slow dive. The Pinnacles is the reason the Produce is now laying on the ocean floor. The depth here averages between 5 meters and 18 meters, depending where you are on the ridges. On the one side the "Pinnacles" slope down toward the "Raggie Cave" and "Manta Point" area, and on the shore-side they gently slope down to the "Northern Sands" area. The sea-facing ledges are a lot steeper than the ones which tapes gently off to the "Northern Sands". There are quite a few gullies, swim-through's, overhangs and ledges as well as some stunning deep potholes with caves that hide at the base of them. This provides a home for many rays and turtles. Juvenile Geometric Eels can be seen peeping out of holes in the reef. Dolphins very often come by to join the divers, playing in the shallow water and even Manta Rays and Turtles are spotted regularly. Tropical fish like Wrasse, Butterfly fish, Angel fish, Chocolate dip, Dominoes and Two bar clownfish can also be seen on this dive. The most beautiful Turret coral in yellow and green can be seen on the walls of the overhangs and Branched black coral as well as Green fern coral, Dead-man's finger coral can also be seen on this reef.
Manta Point
Situated of the eastern side of "Pinnacles" and definitely one of the favourite spots on the shoal is "Manta Point". As the name depicts, this is a popular spot for the magnificent Manta Ray, and is home to thousands of colourful reef fish. This dive has a maximum depth of around 20 meters and is on route to "Raggies Cave". Here you'll find huge rock formations with caves big enough for you to have a peak inside, as well as overhangs and ledges with schools of fish hiding underneath. Swim-through's and gullies are also on the list of interesting landscaping in this area. Schools of Flute-mouth fish, Batfish, Trigger fish, Wrasse, and lots more can be seen on this dive. As far as the coral life goes, there is an array of hard and soft coral, with the soft coral more on the edges of the reef in between the crevices and in the caves. The hard coral found, outline the outer or top part of the reef. For instance, there are parts of the reef that looks as if it was draped by the Leather coral with bits of sea grass in between and a sea urchin here and there, really a beautiful sight. This is a great multilevel dive.
Eel Skin
On this reef one will find shattered rock formations with a wall on the side full of caverns and overhangs with lots of marine life. The maximum depth on this dive is 19m and on average 13m. The scenery on this dive is one of the best on the shoal. On this reef you will see the widest variety of starfish in different colours, shapes and sizes. If you can, bring a camera along on this dive. Cleaning stations are to be seen in the small caverns. False stonefish, Peacock Manta shrimp, Puffer fish and Box fish are but some of the species seen on this dive. The coral on the other hand tend to be softer than hard coral. Green fern coral with clouds of Goldies, and Nudibranchs on the rock formations are a must see. Don't forget to be on the lookout for game fish lurking in the big blue.
Outside Edge
This edge runs on the sea side of the Shoal and has a depth range between 14m to 26m. There are different dive spots along this wall like Raggie's Cave, Cathedral and Sharks Ally. Some caves and overhangs can also be found on this edge. This area normally has a lot of Triggerfish, and schools of Fusiliers sometimes pass by in midwater. Naturally you'll find Ragged-tooth Sharks lingering in some of the caves or swimming through the Allies, given the fact that it's between July and December. Common reef fish like Goldies, Snappers, Surgeonfish, Dominoes and Old Woman Angelfish are seen here, Floutemouth fish and Trumpetfish are also regular visitors. In this area there are a bit more hard coral to be found for example Smooth Horned coral, Green coral tree, False Honeycomb corals and Porous corals. Soft coral consist more of Polyp coral in various colours, yellow and white Dead-man's finger coral, Black coral and Turret coral. Really an interesting dive with the most amazing landscaping to be seen, and as per usual on the Shoal - always keep an eye out in the midwater for game fish swimming by.
Inside Edge
The inside edge is a wall stretching three to six meters high, with ledges, caves and overhangs where the most activity is along the side of the wall. Along the one side there is a big sand patch with scattered rock formations. Along the wall there are big green Fern coral, Black coral, Whip coral and various other soft coral. Goldies and other juveniles usually form a big cloud around the Black coral. Be on the lookout for Raggy Scorpionfish and False Stonefish because they are camouflaged so well that you really have to look carefully to spot them. Other regular visitors on the sand at the bottom of the edge are Guitarfish, Skates and various Rays. The regular tropical fish like Angelfish, Butterflyfish, Parrotfish, Wrasse etc. will be found amongst the coral and crevices. Guineafowl moray eels and beautiful Nudibranchs also occupy space on this reef.
TIGER SHARKS
Aliwal Shoal is one of the only places in the world where you can get close to the Tiger Shark in their natural environment outside the confines of a cage. For shark fanatics, photographers, adrenalin junkies and thrill seekers this is a dive not to be missed!
Tiger Sharks are without a doubt one of the most misunderstood animals of the ocean and after 7 years of research and operation the understanding of their behavioural patterns has enabled a technique to be developed for safe encounters with these incredible creatures. Tiger Shark sightings are almost guaranteed on every dive and as many as eight Tigers have been sighted at a time. The Tiger Sharks generally rage from 3-4 meters although 5 meters sharks have been seen. Large numbers of Oceanic Black Tips and Dusky Sharks also join in on the dive and sometimes other species such as the Zambezi (Bull) Sharks are also sighted.
A surf launch from the Umkomaas River and a 15 min boat ride will take you to the Southern Ledge of Aliwal Shoal. Here we will create an odour corridor to attract the sharks. In this method we do not feed the sharks and so do not interrupt their natural feeding patterns. After a short wait the sharks will begin to gather and we will kit up to experience the pleasure of seeing one of the greatest ocean predators in their natural environment. Before each dive an extensive briefing will be given where we pass on our knowledge of the Tiger Shark's behaviour and how you the diver should behave on the dive. Two dive guides are present on every dive keeping everyone together and closely monitoring the behaviour of the sharks. The dive has a maximum depth of 10 meters giving us plenty of time to enjoy this unique encounter.
Adrenaline pumping once in a lifetime dives with these amazing sharks blows the minds of even the most experienced diver and aims to give a greater insight into these magnificent creatures!
THE NEBO
This 2000 ton steamship sank on 20th May 1884 just north of the Aliwal Shoal. She was on her maiden voyage from Sunderland to Durban, carrying materials for the Van Stadens River bridge back in the 1800's. Although there is no certainty, it was officially reported that she had struck an uncharted pinnacle. There is much doubt about this version of events, especially as the supposed pinnacle has never been reported since. Some experts believe that she was loaded incorrectly which made her very top heavy and when she encountered rough seas close to the shoal she simply went belly up and sank. There is more credibility to this story, as the Nebo is lying upside down, a rather surreal sight as she is still fairly intact 18-30 meters below the surface.
The wreck, which is broken into two main parts, is over 100 years old and this makes her a well established artificial reef and home to a huge variety of marine life. One of the regular species found on this reef is the Natal Catfish, swimming in-and-out and around the wreck. Harlequin Goldies are also seen on the wreck in huge numbers and are endemic to this area. Round Ribbontail Rays, Sharpnose Stingrays and Greyspoted Guitarfish are just a few of the sand visitors around the Nebo. Squid, Stonefish and Scorpionfish were also found, lingering about. Schools of Fusiliers, Tuna and Hammerhead Sharks as well as Manta Rays have been spotted in the blue; also have an eye out for game fish patrolling the area. Soft coral like Green Fern coral, different colours Polyp coral and Green and Yellow Turret coral are also found on this wreck.
Onshore conditions make this a challenging dive, but on a good calm day, it can be a great dive indeed, especially if you have a fascination for history as the age of the wreck makes it a serious part of our local history. This is a good dive site for your first wreck dive.
THE PRODUCE
The Produce is an old cargo vessel that was allegedly carrying molasses. The Produce was traveling from Durban, headed south when it struck the Pinnacles on the Aliwal Shoal in August 1974. Luckily there were no lives lost as a rescue party launched from the Umkomazi River managed to reach her in time and saved all the people on board. The Janson brothers, two commercial fishermen that still operate in the area, were responsible for the rescue in dangerous seas for which they received our countries highest award for bravery (the Honoris Crux).
The produce is 119m long and lies facing North. She has come to rest on her starboard side and broken in two leaving the midship area very flat and scattered. Both sections can be dived on the same dive, provided conditions allow. The stern section is the largest of the two, with the smaller bow section lying some 20-30 meters in a northerly direction away from the stern. Her propeller has been salvaged, however her spare prop can still be seen on her bow. There is a number of swim-through's for the more experienced diver and it is advisable to bring a torch with on this dive to have a better look inside as light doesn't penetrate in all the swim-through's.
The vessel is home to a huge number of marine life and also play host to Giant Brindle Bass, which are massive 3m long fish. Divers can also see Harlequin Goldies all around the wreck; they are endemic to the wreck and can only be found on her and the Nebo at times. Snappers also hang around the wreck in huge schools and Lionfish, Scorpionfish and Stonefish are regularly seen, camouflaged and blended into the scenery. Manta Ray and game fish can also be spotted in the big blue if the visibility allows it. The coral on this wreck consists more of soft than hard coral. Some of the soft coral found here is Fire coral, Whip coral, Green fern coral, Polyp coral and yellow Turret coral. On a good day with little or no current and good visability, this dive can definitely be crowned the jewel of the Aliwal Shoal.